Confession: we are vegetable farmers, and we are Southern, and until recently I just didn’t like okra very much. It’s not that I found it offensive exactly. I was always happy enough to eat it in my husband’s gumbo, where, in his deft hands and alongside a rich roux and some smoky spices, its infamous slime is somehow alchemized into a velvety sauce. In a gumbo the okra itself almost disappears, which makes it quite easy to tolerate. I also tried frying it, over and over again. It was always okay. It was certainly pretty to look at, and I felt I must be doing my body a favor by eating it, even if I had to choke it down. I always felt virtuous eating okra, but I never had very much fun.
With apologies to the many awesome lunch ladies I have known, I am pretty sure the cafeteria at South Columbia Elementary School in Martinez, Georgia, circa 1984, is to blame. I remember dreary piles of the stuff, breaded and steamed and slumping forlornly, almost apologetically, in its compartment of the brownish melamine lunch tray. I looked at its dusty breading and its drab interior, utterly unconvinced, and occasionally gave it a nudge with my fork. It yielded immediately, like pudding, and slid right back off the fork. We got off on the wrong foot, okra and me, and I’m afraid now that I wasted more than twenty-five years holding a grudge.
Because this summer? I’m on an okra bender. I’m not sure what changed for me, exactly. We’re growing okra again after a hiatus of several years; perhaps I see those gorgeous plants with their flowers like delicate ivory trumpets and I just want to do right by them. Maybe something clicked for me when Ali said, “I love okra because it’s the most vegetable-y of our vegetables.” He’s right: when you cook it right, okra’s flavor is green and clean and bright, the very essence of fresh. Maybe it’s because now, as a mother, I don’t want to waste any more time being virtuous. What I want is joy at the table, a strong body and a curious mind and an open heart, a rich family life. I swear I’m finding all that in okra.
A few quick notes and then I’ll share four of our favorite recipes.
Storing okra: Keep your okra in a plastic or paper bag in the fridge, unwashed, and use it within a few days.
Using okra: Please don’t bread it and then steam it. You could steam it very gently, just till bright green and still with some snap to it, and then eat it warm, drizzled with butter and a squeeze of lemon juice, or chilled, dressed with a bright vinaigrette. Try it breaded and fried, braised, pickled, skewered and grilled, in stews, in curries, in place of squash or zucchini in ratatouille. See below for four recipes we’ve been making over and over again this summer.
A word about okra slime: In Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, Deborah Madison writes, “Okra is slimy, and rather than try to ignore this fact, perhaps it’s best just to admit that’s how things are.” Maybe that’s what changed for me this summer. I’m not trying to wish the slime away anymore. Instead, I’ve learned how to make it work in a dish’s favor. In our favorite fried okra, it binds with a cornmeal and parmesan coating to create a perfect golden crust. In our okra and tomato braise, it thickens the juices of burst cherry tomatoes and makes the most lovely sauce. And of course it’s essential for thickening up gumbo. Maybe thinking about it this way will help you, too.
Our Favorite Fried Okra
(serves 4-6, unless you eat like we do, in which case: serves 2)
1 lb okra
1/4 cup milk or cream (an egg might work too)
1/2 cup cornmeal
1/4 cup grated Parmesan
1 teaspoon salt
1/4-1/2 teaspoon chili powder
Prepare the coating. In a large bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, Parmesan, salt, and chili powder. Set aside.
Prepare the okra. Trim off the stems. Slice the okra into 1/4-inch rounds. Place in a bowl and drizzle with the milk or cream – just enough to coat the rounds. You may not need all the milk or cream.
Prepare the skillet. Warm several tablespoons olive oil over medium heat in a large skillet.
Finish preparing the okra. Pour the okra into the bowl with the dry ingredients. Using your hands or a large spoon, toss the okra in the breading until it’s well coated.
Fry the okra! When the skillet is ready, dump in the whole mess of okra. We use a 10-inch cast iron skillet and it’s a tight fit, but it works perfectly. Use a large flat spatula to tamp the okra down. Fry until the cheese begins to turn golden. Flip the okra over with a spatula. You’ll have to do this in sections and it will seem messy, but keep going! Fry until the cheese on this side begins to turn golden. Flip back to the first side, and fry another minute or two. Flip back to the second side, and fry another minute or two. Eat!
Braised Okra with Cherry Tomatoes
(serves 4-6, unless you eat like we do, in which case: serves 2)
This recipe comes to us from Noell, who used to host our Ginter Park CSA pickup. Don’t be fooled by its apparent plainness: this belongs in everyone’s summer arsenal. It’s amazing eaten straight from the skillet, and pretty darn good eaten straight from the fridge as well. It’s wonderful on top of quinoa and other grains, and it makes a great wrap or burrito filling. Every time I take a bite I grin.
Quantities are approximate. Use roughly equal amounts of okra and cherry tomatoes, and garlic to taste.
1 lb okra
1 lb cherry tomatoes
3-4 cloves garlic (or to taste), chopped
olive oil, salt & pepper
Warm a few tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, trim off the okra stems and then slice in half lengthwise, or slice into 1/4-inch rounds. When the skillet is ready, add the okra. Saute for about 10 minutes, flipping occasionally, until the okra begins to brown. Add the cherry tomatoes, and salt and pepper to taste, and cover. Braise 5-10 minutes, checking every few minutes. The dish is done when most of the cherry tomatoes have burst.
Frog Bottom Gumbo
(serves a lot)
Ali comes from the Gulf Coast along the Florida Panhandle, and man is the eating good when we’re there! Fried oyster poboys, crawfish étouffée, boudin, just-caught shrimp – all sublime. But Pensacola is a far piece from Pamplin. It’s a good thing the man can cook. Here’s his gumbo recipe. Almost all quantities, except for the flour and butter or oil for the roux, are flexible, and you can change quantities or even ingredients to suit what you have on hand. Beyond what’s listed here we’ve included things like green beans, carrots, and squash. Trust that once you’ve got a handle on making a roux, the rest of this dish will come together easily.
3 tablespoons butter or neutral tasting cooking oil
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 onions or 3 shallots, coarsely chopped
1/2 lb okra, sliced into 1/2-inch rounds
2-3 sweet peppers, coarsely chopped
3-4 stalks celery, coarsely chopped
2-4 cloves garlic (or to taste), chopped
1 jalapeño or other hot pepper, minced
ketchup, cumin, cayenne, Worcestershire to taste
any meats or seafood you like — We like any combination of leftover chicken pulled from the bone, 1/2 lb sausage, 1/2 lb shrimp. The meats are delicious but optional – it’s untraditional but you might consider adding mushrooms or eggplant if you’re vegetarian or vegan.
3-4 tomatoes or 1 large can tomatoes — Some argue that tomatoes have no place in a traditional gumbo, but we think they’re delicious.
1 quart chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 cup uncooked white rice
First, chop your vegetables. It’s very important that they be ready to go before you start the roux, because adding the vegetables to the roux at just the right time is what keeps the roux from burning. Everything can be chopped coarsely, except your hot pepper, which you probably want to mince.
Make the roux. A roux is made of equal parts fat and flour, cooked together over low to medium heat and stirred constantly until it’s done. Set your burner to medium and add your butter or oil. When the butter is melted or the oil warm, add the flour and begin stirring. We use either a metal turner with a straight edge, or a wooden roux stirrer. You could also use a whisk. Do not leave the stove while you’re making the roux. Stir constantly and pay close attention to the color of the roux. For the purposes of a gumbo, you’ll be aiming for a brown roux, the color of a penny or darker. A darker roux will give the sauce in the gumbo a richer taste, but know that the darker you try to get it, the more you risk burning the roux. If black flecks appear, it’s burned. You can’t fix this. Throw it out and start over.
When the roux is a dark coppery brown, add all the vegetable except the tomatoes. They’ll absorb the heat and stop the roux from cooking. Also add any raw meats at this time. Cook until the vegetables are soft and the meat is mostly cooked.
Add salt, pepper, ketchup, and spices to taste.
Add the tomatoes, the stock, any leftover meats you’re using up, and the uncooked rice. Cook until the rice is done.
Add the shrimp (if using) and cook just until they’re pink and firm, just a couple minutes.
And now: eat!
Lacto-Fermented Okra Pickles
I’ve been having quite a lot of fun experimenting with lacto-fermented vegetables this season. In this approach, you ferment or pickle your vegetables in a brine of water, salt, and sometime whey. The brine inhibits the growth of putrefying bacteria (the stuff that makes food rot and stink) and encourages the growth of friendly lactic-acid-producing bacteria. These lactobacilli convert the starches and sugars in the vegetables into lactic acid – a natural preservative. Lacto-fermented vegetables will last for months in cold storage. This summer we’ve lacto-fermented garlic scapes, cucumbers, salsa – and okra!
Our preferred method uses fresh whey, which we get by straining plain whole milk yogurt for a couple hours. Fresh whey contains lots of lactobacilli and so gives the whole process a bit of a boost. Lacto-fermenting is quite simple, but it can be unpredictable and is significantly affected by things like ambient temperature and the stuff that’s in your tap water. Using whey seems to help. That said, you don’t need it, so we’ll tell you how to do it both with and without whey. You’ll need a kitchen scale for our no-whey recipe.
Both recipes double (and triple, quadruple, etc.) easily. We love that you can lacto-ferment in such small batches, but by all means, if you have enough to make more, do!!
A quick word on water, salt, and jars: Don’t use tap water that is heavily chlorinated, because it will kill the lactobacilli. If you can smell or taste chlorine in your water, boil it first, and then let it cool. Likewise, don’t use salt with iodine, which is also antimicrobial. Sea salt and pickling salt both work fine. Jars should be clean but do not need to be sterilized.
We’re greatly indebted to both Nourishing Traditions and Wild Fermentation for our lacto-fermentation education! Both books are fantastic resources.
Lacto-Fermented Okra Pickles (with whey)
as many okra as will fit in a pint jar
1-2 cloves garlic, smashed with the broad side of a chef’s knife
1/2 tablespoon sea salt or pickling salt
2 tablespoons whey (see note above)
1/2 cup water
any spices or seasonings you like – black pepper, cayenne, coriander, cumin, curry, garlic, ginger, and mustard all pair well with okra
Wash the okra and stuff it, along with the garlic, into your pint jar. Pack it in there really tight; you don’t want any pieces to float above the brine when you add it. Make sure there’s about an inch of headroom between the top of the okra and the top of the jar.
Combine the rest of the ingredients and pour over the okra. (If you want, you can gently warm the water and salt in a pot first, stirring until the salt is dissolved, and then add the rest of the ingredients. Alternately, you can simply gently turn the jar back and forth whenever you think of it during the first day or so of fermenting, which will also help the salt dissolve.) Add a bit more water if necessary to cover the okra completely; lacto-fermentation is an anaerobic process, and if any vegetables are exposed above the brine, you risk either mold or mushy vegetables. The okra can expand slightly as it ferments, so be sure to leave about an inch between the top of the brine and the top of the jar. Cover and keep at room temperature for 2-4 days, until bubbles begin to form and the okra is as sour as you like it. Taste it after 2 days; if you like how it tastes, put it in the fridge. If you want it to be more sour, give it another day or two before putting it in the fridge. That’s it! Lasts several months.
Lacto-Fermented Okra Pickles (without whey)
If you have a kitchen scale, this method will definitely appeal to the math or food safety geek in you. The amount of salt you use in your brine can vary quite a lot, but you do need to get it in the right range. Too little salt and putrefying bacteria will survive (you’ll know if this happens – your ferment will mold and/or stink!). Too much salt and all your bacteria will be killed, including the good guys. Aim for a brine that is 3%-5% salt. We prefer the tang of a 5% brine, but 3% is still strong enough to kill the bad guys and let the good guys survive.
Here’s how this method works. Wash the okra and stuff it, along with garlic if you like, into your pint jar. Pack it in there really tight; you don’t want any pieces to float above the brine when you add it. Add water to cover. Make sure there’s about an inch of headroom between the water and the top of the jar. Put a bowl or jar on your kitchen scale and tare it. Now pour the water covering the okra into the jar on the scale. Note the weight and do a little math to determine how much salt you’ll need. For example, if your water weighs 300 grams, a 5% brine requires 15 grams of salt, and a 3% brine requires 9 grams of salt. Put the water, salt, and any spice or seasonings you like (see previous recipe for suggestions) into a pot and heat on your stove, stirring occasionally, until the salt is dissolved. Pour the brine over the okra, cover, and keep at room temperature for 2-4 days, until bubbles begin to form and the okra is as sour as you like it. Taste it after 2 days; if you like how it tastes, put it in the fridge. If you want it to be more sour, give it another day or two before putting it in the fridge. That’s it! Lasts several months.
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Hope these recipes are enough to get you on the right road if you’re an okra skeptic!
If you’re an okra lover, please share your favorite recipes in the comments!




















