Celery is making its first appearance of the season in the CSA shares and on our market tables right now. Farm celery is not your average party tray crudité, so we thought we’d make a proper introduction.
The Roman poet Horace wrote, “Fill the cups with Massic wine, which makes us forget all our ills; imbibe the flowers of these mighty springs, and make in haste crowns of ache (celery) and myrtle.” This is a very pretty way of saying the ancient Romans believed wearing celery wreaths was protection against hangovers! Could this be where the idea of a celery stalk in a Bloody Mary comes from?
The celery we grow is certainly potent stuff! We don’t blanch the stalks, so this celery is dark green, full of nutrients, and packed with flavor. Use it sparingly.
Storing celery: Celery has a very high water content, so get it into a cold fridge as soon as possible. It’s best stored in a loosely closed plastic bag, sprinkled with water every day or two to help prevent dehydration. If it seems a bit limp when you’re ready to use it, you can crisp it up by putting it in a bowl or dish of ice water in the fridge for a few hours.
Using celery: Celery is commonly used raw to season all kinds of salads. Try a potato salad with our new potatoes and celery! Remember that our celery is much stronger than supermarket celery, so you’ll need less of it. Cooked, it lends a lovely flavor to casseroles and stuffings. It’s also in the trio of aromatics (along with carrot and onion) that make up a mirepoix, a classic flavor base for stocks, sauces, soups, and stews. The ratio is two parts chopped onion, one part chopped celery, and one part chopped carrot. Mirepoix can even be used to add complexity to storebought stock and broth; just simmer it in the stock (about a quarter pound mirepoix per pint stock) for half an hour. But its familiar status as condiment or seasoning belies celery’s identity as a vegetable in its own right. It can be a major ingredient in a puréed soup. This week I’m of a mind to try a chilled celery and beet soup, topped with a little yogurt or crème fraiche – I’ll report back! And braising! Braising turns celery, which I, frankly, sometimes find too assertive, into something tame and sweet. Try slicing the stalks in half lengthwise and putting them in a casserole dish with a couple cups of stock (or water), a few tablespoons of lemon juice (or wine), a few tablespoons of butter (or olive oil), and some salt and pepper; cover tightly with aluminum foil and cook at 350° for an hour and a half. Drizzle with melted butter and parmesan and run it under the broiler until the cheese is browned, or cool and toss with your favorite vinaigrette, or drizzle with brown butter.
Do you have any favorite family recipes for celery? Please share in the comments!
And bon appétit!

